Cinzia Merli and Le Macchiole at Quince San Francisco

Eugenio Campolmi and his wife Cinzia Merli of the 22-hectare Le Macchiole represented one of only seven producers to attend the very first meeting of the Consorzio Bolgheri resulting in the 1994 Bolgheri DOC. That’s pretty recent wine growing is this northern section of the Tuscan coast, which might help explain why wineries like Sassicaia, Tignanello, Orneillaia and Grattamacco have never been afraid of experimentation and innovation. Many of these producers of the so-called “Super Tuscans” focus mainly on red wine blends, using international varietals like Cabernet Sauvignon to bolster their Sangiovese, or they omit Sangiovese altogether in favor of Merlot, but Le Macchiole has always been focused on mono-varietal wines.

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Cinzia, who took over the winery after her husband’s untimely death in 2002, explained that “if you want the expression of vineyard, mono-varietal wines express it best”. It also means that her wines must be labeled IGT rather than Bolgheri DOC, a distinction that seems to matter little to Cinzia. She and her long-time oenologist Luca d’Attoma are improving the wines of Le Macchiole each year. Yes, there is polish and new wood, but it’s not something you think about when you’re tasting the gorgeously complex 2004 Paleo Rosso (100% Cabernet Franc) or the Côte-Rôtie-like 2005 Scrio (100% Syrah). Cinzia says it best: "in our wine there is the sun”.  

2006 Le Macchiole Paleo Bianco

Salty, lemon cream, some peach and tropical notes, shows wood but integrated. Rich, soft texture. 70% sauvignon blanc, 30% Chardonnay. 5000 bottle production. Changed vinification in 2008, shorter period in wood. Cinzia says she loves the '09. Paired with crudo of Monterey spot prawn, fennel, golden nugget, tomato and lemon verbena.

 2004 Le Macchiole Paleo Rosso

100% Cabernet Franc. Great! Super pure aromatics, very balanced palate, straight, high-toned, perfumed, purple flowers but more black fruit, licorice. 50 percent new barrique. Paired with Tortolloni of porcini mushroom, zolfino bean, borage, pecorino di fossa.

 2005 Le Macchiole Paleo Rosso

Deeper, more chocolately, black olive, sweet licorice, sweet black cherry, super-sweet mid-palate. Comes accross as more international. Cinzia says more "tac" more straight but right now I find it sweeter and rounder than the ’04. Paired with Paine farm squab, lacinato kale and artichoke. Insanely good pairing thanks to sommelier David Lynch. Artichokes taste like meat!

 2005 Le Macchiole Scrio

The name means pure, usually refers to people. Closed nose at first, but opens up, reveals floral and black fruit. Very sturdy, northern Rhône-like. “There is a freshness and clarity to all of these wines” - Jeffrey Meisel (Le Macchiole’s U.S. importer). Paired with Watson lamb, Rosemary and lardo wrapped loin with green chickpea, gypsy pepper and aceto balsamico – another sensational pairing.

 2005 Le Macchiole Messorio

100 percent merlot since 1994. From Bottega del vino glass, “this was the goal form the beginning” – Cinzia Merli. “Ornaeilla discovered how well Merlot does in Bolgheri first with their Masseto”. Very balanced, one of the best expressions of this variety in the world. Very sweet, dense, black core of fruit, balanced with great complexity. Very age-worthy. Paired with Robiolla.