Sashi Moorman, Evening Land's Seedling Project, and the Lompoc Wine Ghetto
Evening Land Vineyards is by far one of the most ambitious wine projects in the United States right now. The Prince of Pinot sums up nicely who's involved and what this project is all about. Having now tasted at both the Oregon facility with winemaker Isabelle Meunier, and now Sashi Moorman in the Sta. Rita Hills, I can say simply this: Evening Land is on an entirely higher level. To push the envelope even further, Evening Land has planted an experimental vineyard called Memorious from seed near the ocean in the cool and windy Sta. Rita Hills appellation of Santa Barbara (sorry about the wind, but then again, that's kind of the point).
In a second Pinot Noir vineyard named Wintry Hill we experienced an entirely different climat with perfect southerly exposure and far less wind.
The wines are produced in an industrial park known as the Wine Ghetto in Lompoc. Much like their counterpart facility in Salem the interior of this warehouse winery is sparse and immaculately clean and reminded me of the meticulousness of Rudi Pichler's cellar in Wachau and Didier Dagueneau's in Saint-Andelain. I don't mind moldy cellars at all but this kind of austerity and attention to detail suggests a level of seriousness we don't always see in here in the U.S. The Pinot Noirs differ greatly from those of Evening Land's Oregon vineyard. They have more color and seemed more substantial but they also hint at minerality, show restraint, and are produced with a sensibility that marks a new direction for California wine.
jessebeckerMS
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