Photos from a past visit to the Loire Valley's Anjou-Saumur: 1. Morning fog near the Layon; 2. Beth Becker at Château Piere-Bise; 3. Tasting at Château Pierre-Bise; 4. Les Treilles in Coteaux-du-Layon; 5.Tasting at Domaine des Baumard ; 6. Jesse with Nicolas Joly; 7. Quarts de Chaumes; 8. Boudin noir and apples à la Jo Pithon; 9. Beth in Saumur; 10. Nady Foucault of Clos Rougeard

Anjou-Saumur is the largest region of the Loire Valley and is one of its most diverse. The Cabernet Franc growing areas of the Touraine (Chinon and Bourgeuil) continue into Saumur-Champigny (meaning "field of fire") where the red wines are particularly aromatic. The "Saumur" appellation serves as a catch all and may be still and red or white but more than half of Saumur wines are sparkling. Further west, Anjou is known for its off-dry Anjou Rosé which is made from the local Grolleau grape variety.

But the real pursuit of Anjou is sweet and golden Chenin Blanc produced in a luscious dessert style in Coteaux-du-Layon and its crus of Quarts de Chaume, and Bonnezeaux. These sweet Chenins are the result of passerillage (late harvest) or pourriture noble (botrytis). The difference between a sweet passerillage wine and a sweet pourriture noble wine is remarkable and becomes crystal clear for a taster visiting the region.

Perhaps most importantly is the dry and powerful Savennières where the biodynamic guru Nicolas Joly holds court among many other worldclass producers. 

I recently wrote a few words about the Loire on our website. Click here and scroll down to read more about all the diversity and pleasure that the Loire has to offer. 

 

Photos from a past visit to the Loire Valley's Touraine: 1. Informal tasting at Château de Coulaine in Chinon; 2. Beth Becker at Château de Coulaine; 3. Beth Becker before an epic tasting at Christophe Des Champs in Bourgueil; 4. Cabernet Franc vines in argile-calcaire soil; 5. Caves deep below Bourgueil; 6. Philippa Sydney, François-Xavier Barc, and Charles Sydney at Charles Joguet in Chinon; 7. Cabernet Franc in Clos de la Dioterie at Charles Joguet in Chinon; 8. The tasting room at Jacky Blot in Montlouis.; 9. Tasting with Manuela Chidaine of Domaine François Chidaine in Montlouis-sur-Loire; 10. 100% Romorantin Cour-Cheverny

The Loire river turns west at Orléans and begins to make its way towards the Atlantic. This is where things get really interestsing. The Gamay wines of Cheverny offer light red wines full of soft red fruit while its Sauvignon-based white wines remind us that we're still transitioning from Le Centre. The odd Cour-Cheverny is based on an obscure white grape called Romorantin to produce a wine that is delicious enough in situ. Wines labled "Touraine" can be produced from Chenin, Sauvignon or Chardonnay for white wine. Red Touraine is made from Côt (Malbec), Cabernet, Pinot Noir, and Pinot d’Aunis.

The important stuff lies in the western half of the appellation where one finds golden Chenin growing in tuffeau soils in Vouvray and Montlouis-sur-Loire. Equally significant are the Cabernet Franc's of Chinon, Bourgueil, and St-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil. Arguably the greatest expression of the Cabernet Franc varietal, at least in the herbal and floral style produced here. 

I recently wrote a few words about the Loire on our website. Click here and scroll down to read more about all the diversity and pleasure that the Loire has to offer. 

Eugenio Campolmi and his wife Cinzia Merli of the 22-hectare Le Macchiole represented one of only seven producers to attend the very first meeting of the Consorzio Bolgheri resulting in the 1994 Bolgheri DOC. That’s pretty recent wine growing is this northern section of the Tuscan coast, which might help explain why wineries like Sassicaia, Tignanello, Orneillaia and Grattamacco have never been afraid of experimentation and innovation. Many of these producers of the so-called “Super Tuscans” focus mainly on red wine blends, using international varietals like Cabernet Sauvignon to bolster their Sangiovese, or they omit Sangiovese altogether in favor of Merlot, but Le Macchiole has always been focused on mono-varietal wines.

Cinzia, who took over the winery after her husband’s untimely death in 2002, explained that “if you want the expression of vineyard, mono-varietal wines express it best”. It also means that her wines must be labeled IGT rather than Bolgheri DOC, a distinction that seems to matter little to Cinzia. She and her long-time oenologist Luca d’Attoma are improving the wines of Le Macchiole each year. Yes, there is polish and new wood, but it’s not something you think about when you’re tasting the gorgeously complex 2004 Paleo Rosso (100% Cabernet Franc) or the Côte-Rôtie-like 2005 Scrio (100% Syrah). Cinzia says it best: "in our wine there is the sun”.  

2006 Le Macchiole Paleo Bianco

Salty, lemon cream, some peach and tropical notes, shows wood but integrated. Rich, soft texture. 70% sauvignon blanc, 30% Chardonnay. 5000 bottle production. Changed vinification in 2008, shorter period in wood. Cinzia says she loves the '09. Paired with crudo of Monterey spot prawn, fennel, golden nugget, tomato and lemon verbena.

 2004 Le Macchiole Paleo Rosso

100% Cabernet Franc. Great! Super pure aromatics, very balanced palate, straight, high-toned, perfumed, purple flowers but more black fruit, licorice. 50 percent new barrique. Paired with Tortolloni of porcini mushroom, zolfino bean, borage, pecorino di fossa.

 2005 Le Macchiole Paleo Rosso

Deeper, more chocolately, black olive, sweet licorice, sweet black cherry, super-sweet mid-palate. Comes accross as more international. Cinzia says more "tac" more straight but right now I find it sweeter and rounder than the ’04. Paired with Paine farm squab, lacinato kale and artichoke. Insanely good pairing thanks to sommelier David Lynch. Artichokes taste like meat!

 2005 Le Macchiole Scrio

The name means pure, usually refers to people. Closed nose at first, but opens up, reveals floral and black fruit. Very sturdy, northern Rhône-like. “There is a freshness and clarity to all of these wines” - Jeffrey Meisel (Le Macchiole’s U.S. importer). Paired with Watson lamb, Rosemary and lardo wrapped loin with green chickpea, gypsy pepper and aceto balsamico – another sensational pairing.

 2005 Le Macchiole Messorio

100 percent merlot since 1994. From Bottega del vino glass, “this was the goal form the beginning” – Cinzia Merli. “Ornaeilla discovered how well Merlot does in Bolgheri first with their Masseto”. Very balanced, one of the best expressions of this variety in the world. Very sweet, dense, black core of fruit, balanced with great complexity. Very age-worthy. Paired with Robiolla.