Filed under: Loire

Blog: The Wines of the Loire Part Four >> Pays Nantais

Harbor-nantes

Pictured above: the harbor in Nantes. 

The Loire finally end its journey in the region of Nantes before it empties into the Atlantic. This coastal region features granite and gneiss soils on which the neutral-tasting Melon de Bourgogne produces bone dry, lemony, almost briny white wines that seem to pair magically well with the famous oysters of the region. The appellation of Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maineproduces the most intense and salty Melon wines of all, where they are frequently bottled directly off the fine lees for added richness.

I recently wrote a few words about the Loire on our website. Click here and scroll down to read more about all the diversity and pleasure that the Loire has to offer. 

Blog: The Wines of the Loire Part Three >> Anjou-Saumur

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Photos from a past visit to the Loire Valley's Anjou-Saumur: 1. Morning fog near the Layon; 2. Beth Becker at Château Piere-Bise; 3. Tasting at Château Pierre-Bise; 4. Les Treilles in Coteaux-du-Layon; 5.Tasting at Domaine des Baumard ; 6. Jesse with Nicolas Joly; 7. Quarts de Chaumes; 8. Boudin noir and apples à la Jo Pithon; 9. Beth in Saumur; 10. Nady Foucault of Clos Rougeard

Anjou-Saumur is the largest region of the Loire Valley and is one of its most diverse. The Cabernet Franc growing areas of the Touraine (Chinon and Bourgeuil) continue into Saumur-Champigny (meaning "field of fire") where the red wines are particularly aromatic. The "Saumur" appellation serves as a catch all and may be still and red or white but more than half of Saumur wines are sparkling. Further west, Anjou is known for its off-dry Anjou Rosé which is made from the local Grolleau grape variety.

But the real pursuit of Anjou is sweet and golden Chenin Blanc produced in a luscious dessert style in Coteaux-du-Layon and its crus of Quarts de Chaume, and Bonnezeaux. These sweet Chenins are the result of passerillage (late harvest) or pourriture noble (botrytis). The difference between a sweet passerillage wine and a sweet pourriture noble wine is remarkable and becomes crystal clear for a taster visiting the region.

Perhaps most importantly is the dry and powerful Savennières where the biodynamic guru Nicolas Joly holds court among many other worldclass producers. 

I recently wrote a few words about the Loire on our website. Click here and scroll down to read more about all the diversity and pleasure that the Loire has to offer. 

 

Blog: The Wines of the Loire Part Two >> Touraine

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Photos from a past visit to the Loire Valley's Touraine: 1. Informal tasting at Château de Coulaine in Chinon; 2. Beth Becker at Château de Coulaine; 3. Beth Becker before an epic tasting at Christophe Des Champs in Bourgueil; 4. Cabernet Franc vines in argile-calcaire soil; 5. Caves deep below Bourgueil; 6. Philippa Sydney, François-Xavier Barc, and Charles Sydney at Charles Joguet in Chinon; 7. Cabernet Franc in Clos de la Dioterie at Charles Joguet in Chinon; 8. The tasting room at Jacky Blot in Montlouis.; 9. Tasting with Manuela Chidaine of Domaine François Chidaine in Montlouis-sur-Loire; 10. 100% Romorantin Cour-Cheverny

The Loire river turns west at Orléans and begins to make its way towards the Atlantic. This is where things get really interestsing. The Gamay wines of Cheverny offer light red wines full of soft red fruit while its Sauvignon-based white wines remind us that we're still transitioning from Le Centre. The odd Cour-Cheverny is based on an obscure white grape called Romorantin to produce a wine that is delicious enough in situ. Wines labled "Touraine" can be produced from Chenin, Sauvignon or Chardonnay for white wine. Red Touraine is made from Côt (Malbec), Cabernet, Pinot Noir, and Pinot d’Aunis.

The important stuff lies in the western half of the appellation where one finds golden Chenin growing in tuffeau soils in Vouvray and Montlouis-sur-Loire. Equally significant are the Cabernet Franc's of Chinon, Bourgueil, and St-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil. Arguably the greatest expression of the Cabernet Franc varietal, at least in the herbal and floral style produced here. 

I recently wrote a few words about the Loire on our website. Click here and scroll down to read more about all the diversity and pleasure that the Loire has to offer. 

Blog: The Wines of the Loire Part One >> Le Centre

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Photos from a past visit to Sancerre and other regions of Le Centre: 1. The village of Sancerre; 2. Sancerre town; 3. Sancerre's three soils; 4. Jesse Becker, MS, Emmanuel Mellot and Dominique Roger in Bué; 5. Beth Becker in St-Andelin; 6. The road to Chavignol; 7. A perfect Crottin de Chavignol; 8. Beth near Chavignol; 9. The tiny hamlet of Verdigny at dusk. 

The Loire River extends itself for over 1000 kilometers and its myriad of valleys and tributaries makes for France's most diverse and multi-facted wine region.

The Loire begins in the Massif Central and flows north towards the city of Orléans before it sharply bends left and makes it way to the Atlantic ocean. It's between the Massif and Orléans where the fringe of Burgundy can be felt with its countless lieux-dits (named vineyards) and the occasional plots of Pinot Noir. But it is in Sancerre, the world's benchmark example of Sauvignon Blanc, that the wines of Le Centre (the central vineyards of France) really shine. In Sancerre, Sauvignon excels on the same Kimmeridgian soils that define Chablis. In Pouilly-Fumé, silex (flint) lends a hallmark pierre à fusil (gun flint) aroma to its wines. 

Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé are only two of the Central appellations with something to express. Menetou-Salon, Quincy and Reuilly provide plenty of Sauvignon and Pinot to ponder deeply despite their humble pricing. 

I recently wrote a few words about the Loire on our website. Click here and scroll down to read more about all the diversity and pleasure that the Loire has to offer. 

 

Pithon-Paillé @32NaturalDays plus Linda Violago on López de Heredia

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If you're not following Cory Cartwright's 32 Days of Natural Wine on his excellent blog saignée, you're missing out on some great insights on the natural wine movement, and some great wine writing in general. Yesterday, I contributed post 19.1 with a profile on Pithon-Paillé, friends of mine who are working to establish a new wine business for themselves in Anjou. Sommelier Linda Milagros Violago from Malmo, Sweden followed up with post 19.2: Talking about Tondonia, an up-close look at Rioja's most traditional producer. I worked with Linda briefly at Charlie Trotter's in Chicago and I respect her knowledge and palate tremendously.

A short video posted by Wendy featuring Jo and herself at Les Treilles.