Filed under: Paris Restaurants

Paris Restaurant: Le Café du Passage (11 Arr.)

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Le Café du Passage was the second of two Paris restaurant recommendations by our friend and part-time Parisian David. David has a knack for rooting out value spots that feature market-driven cooking and well-chosen cartes du vin. Le Café du Passage is really more of a wine bar without a kitchen serving petits plats  (I think the dishes are plated behind the bar) with maybe a toaster oven to warm sandwiches and a few other hot dishes. We ordered a salade mixte, a Corsican saucisson of pork tenderloin, (I believe the owner is from Corsica), and a croque-monsieur made with Reblochon which I thought would work well with our wine. This may sound like a simple dinner but the ingredients were first rate and the dishes were prepared with care. In reading about the charcuterie of Corsica I came across this article stating that "sadly nearly 85% of Corsican charcuterie is produced on a semi-industrial basis" so I'm not certain of our saucisson's pedigree. It was tasty though. The interior is warm if nothing special and the place seems to draw a late local crowd. The real reason to go to Le Café du Passage is the well-priced and well-chosen wine list. We selected an '04 Raveneau Blanchot Chablis for € 88. There's a lot of great Burgundy and a tempting vertical of Jamet Côte-Rôtie, all ridiculously well-priced. I fear this place is becoming too well known now as there were quite a few out-of-stock wines so go to Le Café du Passage sooner rather than later.

12, rue de Charonne
Paris, France 75011
+33 1 49 29 97 64
Open 7 days/week

Paris Restaurant: Les Fines Gueules

Les Fines Gueules (1 Arr.)

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An excellent Paris restaurant recommendation from our friend David. David, who in addition to working with a top notch importer of Burgundies into United States, has a palate that I admire greatly. David has dined at the world's best restaurants and probably drinks more great Burgundy than anyone I know. He's dined at The French Laundry over 200 times yet his current fascination is with ingredients and à la minute cooking. David eschews the ubiquitous sous-vide techniques so popular with chefs today and derides the molecular gastronomy movement as "bullshit". I certainly haven't recorded as many dinners at TFL as David has but I must say that his ever-evolving palate speaks to my own sensibilities. Chef Paul Kulik of my last restaurant, The Boiler Room, worked in this way. Most of Kulik's day is spent purveying ingredients only to do as little as possible to them before the dish is sent to the guest's table.

David's choice for lunch was Les Fines Gueules, a farm-to-table (the term seems so silly here), up-to-date bar à vin near a trendy shopping district in the 1st arrondissement. This 17th-century stone building is divided into three small dining rooms each sparse and modern in their décor. Natural light pours in from east-facing windows during lunch and the doors were left open to the street giving the interior a bright and airy feel. Ingredient sourcing is obviously high-priority for chef Arnaud Bradol: bread is from Poujauran; meat from star butcher Hugo Desnoyer, and the insanely good potatoes served with our steak were from Britannay. The wine list focuses on vin naturel. I doubt that any dish we ate contained more than five or six ingredients. Pristine flavors and a lovely list of wines. Here's what we ordered:

Carpaccio de veau élevée sous la mère, parmesan bio 36 mos, huile d'olive vierge extra
Thinly sliced veal raised by its mother with 36-month organic parmagiano-reggiano and extra virgin olive oil

Emietté de tourteau et coulis de concombres
Crab in a sauce of cucumber and cream

Assortiment de mozzarella bufala et tranches de San Daniele
Mozzarella di Bufala with Prosciutto di San Daniele

Bavette, purée maison, sauce vin rouge (x's 2)
Skirt steak, potato purée and red wine sauce

et le vin:

2008 Jacques Maillet, Roussette de Savoie, "Autrement" | 2009 Clos Capitoro, Ajaccio Rosé (Corsica) | 2008 Marula, Touraine Rouge "Les Gruches"

43, rue Croix des Petits Champs
75001 Paris
+33 1 42 61 35 41
Open 7 days/week
http://www.lesfinesgueules.fr/