Filed under: Rhone

Blog: Pairing Viognier #wine with @DaringPairings Ginger and Orange Fried Chicken

 

Georges-vernay-viognier

Those of you who subscribe to our e-mail newsletter recently received an offer for the delicious Viognier wines of Domaine Georges Vernay. Viognier is the white grape variety responsible for the small Condrieu appellation and even smaller Château-Grillet in France's Northern Rhône. It is known for its intoxicating perfume of stone fruit and orange blossoms and is often helped along by maturation in small oak barrels. The ripe intensity of Viognier's fruit is suggestive of sweetness but the wines are classically fermented dry. 

 

Viognier's aromatic exuberance and succulent apricot and peach flavor might at first seem to be limited in its ability to pair well with food. But as my colleague Evan Goldstein MS points out in his excellent Perfect Pairings book, this is not at all true. Goldstein writes, "Viognier is underrated in its ability to pair with food" and suggests "choosing foods that suggest sweetness but are not really sweet, like a Moroccan tagine of chicken, preserved lemons, and cinnamon." 

 

We prepared the Ginger and Orange Fried Chicken recipe found in the book and put Goldstein's theory to a test. The recipe calls marinating the chicken in buttermilk, orange and fresh ginger before coating with a seasoned mixture ground ginger and curry powder. Orange and fresh ginger played nicely with the fruit and spice found in the 2010 Domaine Georges Vernay Viognier Le Pied de Samson of course, but it was the last two ingredients (curry and ground ginger) really sealed the deal. Goldstein suggests pairing Viognier "with curried anything" and the curry and ginger certainly seemed to be the binding element in this pairing. 

 

Our chicken was accompanied by a simple green salad dressed with citrus vinaigrette and garnished with avocado and orange slices.  

 

Blog: The Wines of the Northern Rhône #wine

(download)

Images from previous visits to the Northern Rhône. 

Even in its most restrained interpretation, Condrieu gives such an exotic and tropical punch of New World aroma that one doubts—if just for a moment—that the wine in one’s glass is French. Viognier, the grape variety responsible for Condrieu’s honey and apricot aroma, also makes an unexpected appearance in the neighboring red wine appellation of Côte-Rôtie where it can be co-fermented with Syrah (the theory being it stabilizes red wine color!). These two grapes, along with Marsanne and Roussane (both white), make up the whole of the Northern Rhône’s plantings. 

I recently wrote a few words about the Northern  Rhône on our website. Click here and scroll down to read more about the wines of the Northern Rhône. 

 

Low sulfur wines with Savio Soares

(download)
Very good to meet importer Savio Soares in San Francisco this week and taste through his range of (mostly) low sulfur wines. Savio is our source for the excellent Jura wines of Annie et Philippe Bornard as well as a few of our top selling traditional estates from the northern Rhône like Bernard Ange in Croze-Hermitage.

I'm not going to open that huge can of worms over sulfur levels and what's natural and what's not. Instead, I'll just say that at this tasting I found myself gravitating towards the producers that Savio deemed “more conventional” like Franck Balthazar in Cornas. 

Entire blogs are dedicated to defining natural wine and how much–or how little–sulfur belongs in them. That sort of ideology has never been a part of our selection process and we reject many of the zero to 10 grams of sulfur wines that come across our palate. 

That said, we have a great deal of enthusiasm for our Beaujolais selections where the producer has decided to work with zero or very little sulfur. A wine of ideas is of little use to us but a wine of terroir will always have our attention.  

 

Northern Rhônes with friends #wine #food

(download)

An afternoon of delicious food and Northern Rhône wines with friends. Safe travels Janice Barnes!

2009 Pierre Gonon Saint-Joseph Blanc "Les Oliviers"
Sappy, some new wood, very soft and textural, softly floral, very forward, melon and nectarine. 80 percent Marsanne, 20 percent Roussanne. Anise, licorice, marshmallow candy. From the importers website: "before it was sold as Saint Joseph, the wine from this renowned parcel was sold as Vin des Oliviers. From the Coteau des Oliviers which overlook the Oliviers stream, it enjoys a rarified southern exposure."

2008 Yves Gangloff Condrieu
(15% alcohol) heady, intense peach, apricot, some mineral. Needs a rich cream sauce and/or shell fish. Some citrus, better acidity than most Condrieu. Some sulfur showing on the nose. Fermented and matured in at least some new wood.

2008 Alain Graillot Crozes-Hermitage
Wow! Gorgeous perfume, high percentage whole cluster, licorice, anise, paprika, stunning aromatics. Flowering Nicotiana, iron, very mineral. Complex and layered. Medium weight, long, savory finish. Graillot always uses a high percentage of stems.

2009 Domaine Combier Crozes-Hermitage Clos des Grives
An interesting contrast to Alain Graillot. Completely destemmed. Much more polished nose, less smoke, nose is much more closed than the Graillot but much more cracked black pepper. Raw walnut skin. Very well made wine, definitely more closed that the Graillot. Decanted.

1983 Jasmin Côte Rôtie
Smoky, developed but structured, very straight, focused. Long and powerful. Has developed well but for my palate needs to be  consumed in the next few years. Decanted.

1998 Clape Cornas
Wine of the night! Smoky, developed but structured, very straight and focused. Very layered and complex. Alan: this vintage was produced by Pierre. Decanted.

Dinner:

Roasted cauliflower with anchovies, sautéed sugar snap peas, California bing cherries

Purée of peas and crème fraîche à la Alan Murray.

House-cured salmon, crème fraîche, chives, on Outerlands bread << Very awesome! 

Braised chuck roast, roasted Japanese eggplant with balsamic vinegar.

Strawberries

Michel Chapoutier @FPWM San Francisco

Chapoutier-tasting
Oops! Almost forgot to post these notes from the Michel Chapoutier tasting last week at Ferry Plaza Wine Merchant. FPWM does a great job of bringing in great producers every Wednesday night from 4:30-7:30PM. I highly recommend checking their schedule and stopping by if you're in the area.

Chapoutier-bottles
I've tasted with Michel several times now and I believe the wines are better today than when I first started tasting them 13 years ago. In his book, The New France, Andrew Jefford puts the turning point at 1987 when Michel and his brother Marc took over from their father Max. He called the improvement "dramatic: almost all of the wines have acquired more depth...although inititially too much depth, a kind of manic depth based on late-harvest frenzy and forests of new oak". I still found a couple of the reds very oaky, so much so that I doubt you'll see them offered here. But the quality is undeniably high and I really loved the mid-tier Crozes-Hermitage Blanc "Petite Ruche"; my favorite wine that day with unusually bright acidity and freshness for this appellation. The notes below represent just a small sampling of the Chapoutier range, this négociant-éleveur produces wine in both the Southern and Northern Rhône, Southern France, Portugal and Australia.

2008 M. Chapoutier Crozes-Hermitage Petite Ruche

2006 M. Chapoutier Hermitage Blanc Chante-Alouette

2007 M. Chapoutier Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Bernardine

2006 M. Chapoutier Hermitage La Sizeranne

2007 M. Chapoutier Ermitage Le Pavillon