Olivier's Butchery (@frenchbutchery) Dogpatch, San Francisco

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We have a great new French butcher in San Francisco and it is dangerously close to our Potrero Hill warehouse. I say dangerously close because I'm addicted and our meat intake has increased dramatically. Olivier has a cooler full of amazing cuts and he will butcher to order if you call ahead. There's a spectacular looking aged slab of entrecôte which I've yet to get into. So far we've cooked up a delicious côte d'échine de porc, a deboned polet rôti and an aiguilllettte baronne that Olivier butchered for me on the spot.

Get over to the Dogpatch and see Olivier for some excellent meat!
www.oliviersbutchery.com

Blog: Sancerre, Andante Cheese and a California Classic.

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The Chez Panisse warm goat cheese salad prepared at home and served with 2009 Thomas-Labaille Sancerre Les Mont's Damnés.

Still tastes great 30 years later!

San Francisco Restaurant: Una Pizzeria (SoMa)

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The master at work.

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Marinara, Margherita x 2, Bianca, Filetti, Ilario. 

Four people, five pies, purple fizzy wine, best in the USA. That is all.

Una Pizzeria Napoletana
210 11th Street
San Francisco, CA 94103
www.unapizza.com/sf/

San Francisco Restaurant: Outerlands (Outer Sunset)

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My latest obsession: Outerland's pain au levain.

The trek to the Outer Sunset is well worth the commute for the outstanding pain au levain that awaits you at Outerlands. We had to visit Outerlands after being introduced to their delicious sourdough at a recent dinner gathering and their bread and coffee service has turned us into believers.

Outerlands bread is everything a pain au levain is supposed to be: tangy acidic notes; a chewy and delicious crust; a sweet and wheaty crumb. Complex and a pleasure to eat, this stuff is featured throughout the menu and they will sell you a loaf ($5) to take home if they have some to spare. We love it as sandwich bread and it makes killer French toast. Its also excellent on its own with good butter and a bottle of 2009 Paul Pernot Bourgogne Blanc. A delicious snack!

Outerlands also excels at coffee service which is extremely important in our view. A dedicated barista grinds Sightglass coffee to order and will pull an excellent espresso for you. What really sets Outerlands apart (besides the bread) is the skill at which they brew coffee using the Chemex system.

Individually brewed Chemex coffee requires a great deal patience and attention to detail. Given that coffee is an after thought in 99.9 percent of restaurants, I'm totally impressed that the Outerlands barista can go into zen mode and carefully brew Chexmex after Chemex of perfectly clean, full-flavored coffee during the Sunday brunch crunch. Well done!

I'll tackle the rest of the menu in a later post but owners David Muller and Lana Porcello and Chef Brett Cooper (Serpentine, Coi, Saison) are turning out product-driven cuisine at a very high level. If they take their bread and coffee this seriously...

Outerlands
4001 Judah
San Francisco, CA 94122
415-661-6140
http://outerlandssf.com

Spring eating continues: Morels, Becker Lane chop and Sankt Laurent

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Are morels on toast the best way to serve morels? Seems that we're on to something with this adapted recipe from the Chez Panisse Vegetable cookbook. Grilled panunto (the foundation of Tuscan cooking) with morels sautéed in olive oil and spring onions, topped with pea shoots and lemon juice might be my absolute favorite morel mushroom preparation. Tangy and earthy with real morel flavor set off by a near perfect wine pairing: 2008 Bruno Giacosa Barbera d'Alba.

Morels were sourced from Bi-Rite Grocery as was the enormous Becker Lane Organic Farm pork chop seared in our trusty cast iron skillet (if you have a weber and kingsford and some hickory chips go with that instead).

We consumed the 2008 Rosi Schuster Sankt Laurent with the chop along with roasted eggplant. A gorgeous pairing and a beautifully perfumed bottle of wine. St. Laurent (sometimes written Saint Laurent, or in this case in German Sankt Laurent) is from the Pinot family of grapes and indeed is very Pinot Noir-like in its flavor profile: highly aromatic, light in body, dry on the palate and very silky tannins.

San Francisco Restaurant: @CotognaSF (Jackson Square)

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Best pasta in America plus awesome meats and contorni from that wicked cool Universo Rotisserie. There's a pizzaiolo slinging pies out of the second half of the Universo [edit: the wood-burning pizza oven is Mam Forni, seperate from the Universo]. It's never occurred to me to order the pizza here (the pasta is just too good) and I'm having a hard time eating pizza anywhere other than Una these days.

Fluke crudo with Persian cucumber & green almond and Zucchini sformato should not be shared by three people. You will not be satisfied with just one bite so order entire portions for yourself.

Pastas consumed (best in the USA):
Tagliolini with ramps & pancetta
Agnolotti dal plin
Farm egg ravioli with brown butter

From la griglia (Universo magic):
Spit roasted pork loin with wild fennel
Leg of lamb with ramps and English peas

Wines consumed (all David Lynch; all $40):
2006 Cavallotto Freisa - We love Cavalotto and I can't recall ever tasting their Freisa.
2009 Mamete Prevostini Valtellina Botonero - Savory, dry, awesome value.
2007 Inama Carmenère Piu - Lynch surprised us with this one and I had forgotten that Stefano Inama produces this rare Italian Carmenère.

One final note: I've never noticed their Synesso espresso machine before last night. These hand-built machines are very expensive and a rare sight in a restaurant. There is serious commitment to excellence at Cotogna and the result is one of San Francisco's best restaurants.

Cotogna
490 Pacific Avenue
San Francisco, CA 94133
415-775-8508
www.cotognasf.com

San Francisco Restaurant: Bar Jules (Hayes Valley)

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Bar Jules should be the standard for all neighborhood restaurants. The chalkboard menu is small but decisive, the plates are simple but generous and the cooking is at once familiar and thoughtful. Today's brunch offering: manilla clams; flounder; farro salad; game birds; farm eggs; cardamom cake. Wood-grilled quail was simply presented on a bed of arugula and sherry soaked currents ($14). The wine list is small but carefully selected. We paired our quail salad and a brunch dish of farm eggs, bacon and artichokes ($14) with the 2009 Arianna Occhipinti SP68 ($50), a fruity/soft Sicilian blend of Frappato-Nero d'Avola from Louis/Dressner's cadre of natural winemakers. Chef-owner Jessica Boncutter (formerly Zuni and Hog Island Oyster Co.) shows a light handed approached to superbly sourced product. A restaurant we plan to visit often.

Bar Jules
609 Hayes Street
San Francisco, CA 94102
415-621-5482
www.barjules.com

When a wine finally sinks in: J. Hofstätter

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When I worked for restaurants and hotels as a sommelier, I coveted the big-industry tastings because I could mingle with my fellow wine buyers for a few hours instead of unpacking wine boxes or re-organizing the cellar for the umpteenth time. At some point between signing off as The Boiler Room’s wine director and starting périphérique, I lost interest in such mega-tasting events. But don’t get me wrong: they provide a great opportunity to taste many wines in a short period of time. And to be honest, I’ve made a lot of successful buying decisions based on wines I’ve tasted with the huge masses of buyers and sometimes thousands of bottles. 

When it comes to selecting, however, a big-industry tasting is not the best way to do things, at least not for me. Today, I prefer tasting wines in the cellars of the people who grew the grapes and made the wine. Only by regularly tasting at the cellar can we follow a wine’s evolution from beginning to end and get the facts of its production straight from the producer’s mouth. Of course, the requisite time and travel is expensive (and comes right out of our bottom line), but that’s how we prefer to work, and that’s how we intend to select the wines we offer when you sign up for our e-mails.

In our e-mails, for example, you might see an offer for wines from Martin Foradori, whom we regularly visit at his J. Hofstätter estate in the northern reaches of Italy’s Alto Adige. We’ve now paid three visits to his estate (2007, 2008, and 2010) and greatly admire Martin’s range of wines. We’ve walked in the Kolbenhof together (one of Europe’s greatest Gewürztraminer vineyards), drank numerous older bottles of his remarkable Pinot Noir Barthenau Vigna S.Urbano, and shared many meals.

I’m obviously a fan of Martin’s work, so I expected meeting him and tasting new wines at a big-industry tasting in San Francisco yesterday to be predictably enjoyable, but I walked away from Martin’s table being even more impressed than ever. My notes on Martin’s 2009 Pinot Grigio and Bianco read: “why bother with PG from a different producer?” And on the 2009 Gewürztraminer: “is this the best Kolbenhof ever?” Even the Lagrein’s and Pinots seemed more expressive than usual. Maybe it was the 2009 vintage which was excellent, or perhaps it was because I tasted those 2009s from bottle instead of tank for the first time. Whatever the cause, the greatness of Martin’s wines really sunk in, in a setting where wines rarely show their best.

 

Answering your questions: What is périphériquewine?

View périphériquewine - our focus in a larger map

We don’t offer everything. We specialize in wines that grow on the edge of what is viticulturally possible: wines of superb balance, exacting expression, and immense complexity. Open the larger map and click the pins to read more.

We’ve had a busy couple of weeks getting everything in order so we can start offering you terroir-driven wines from small European estates. I’ve amassed a lot of fun material for this blog, tasting last week with both Allen Meadows from Burghound and Mouro Soldera from Case Basse in Montalcino, but we felt the nuts and bolts of our operation needed more attention so I’ll postpone writing about Allen and Mouro until the future.

I’ve received hundreds of inquiries from collectors and consumers and colleagues who’ve been curious about our website wondering just what the heck we’re up to. Here’s the short and sweet of it:

1.    We are a direct-to-consumer wine merchant operating entirely online. We don’t have a storefront or a beer cooler, but we do have very competitive prices and awesome customer service. We receive, store, and ship all of your wines from our temperature-controlled warehouse in San Francisco, California. We’re only able to ship to a limited number of states, so it’s important that you check our shipping page before you place an order.

2.    We communicate with you via e-mail, phone, facebook, and twitter (and sometimes in person). As a Master Sommelier, I’m deeply involved with America’s sommelier community and it’s not uncommon to find me hosting tastings, speaking at events, or maybe even working the floor as a guest sommelier in your local restaurant. I’m always thrilled to meet passionate wine consumers and learning your palate and wine interests on an individual basis.

3.    Because I can’t be in all places at all times, I need a way of communicating with you. Some of our offers will only be made available via e-mail, so it’s important that you sign up for our offers if you wish to have access to all of our wines. Typically, we will send five e-mail offers each week, never more than one per business day. You can opt out of our list at anytime and we’ll never share your e-mail address with anyone.

4.    We specialize in the wines of Europe that form a tight circle, a “périphérique,” around the Alps. I am 100% convinced that it is within this area, on the edge of what is viticulturally possible, that wines are at their most intense, most expressive, and most satisfying. We love acidity, aromatics, complexity, and balance. “Sunshine wines” are not really our thing.

5.    We will be offering other wines, too! We specialize but aren’t so dogmatic that we’d pass on an excellent old-school Rioja or Sicilian or any other exciting wines we know you’re going to want. And we live in California, so we know some West Coast producers who are making some really, really, good wines.

So that’s the deal: good stuff at great prices. We plan to be fully operational in the next month or so and were humbled to know you're interested in our passion for terroir-driven wines. We’re always anxious to chat with you, so send us an e-mail!

Ed Behr's Art of Eating

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Ed Behr reads from his first issue of The Art of Eating at Omnivore Books in San Francisco.

I have 36 blogs feeding into my Google Reader. With the exception of the very necessary Husker football feed and the highly addictive time waster that is Jack Jackson's Go Take a Nap!, the remaining 34 blogs are all about wine or food. I admit, though, that I don’t read every post from top to bottom.

But I really look forward to a couple of publications which I read from start to finish. John Mariani’s Virtual Gourmet Newsletter is one of those publications. Mariani’s detailed notes on restaurants, food, and wine usually arrives in my inbox just as I’m sitting down for my Saturday morning coffee. I look forward to it each week just as I look forward to reading whatever Matt Kramer has to say in his to-the-point column in each issue of Wine Spectator.

My favorite, though, is Ed Behr’s The Art of Eating. It doesn’t come on any regular basis, which can lead to unnerving anticipation. I believe Ed publishes an issue whenever he believes he’s got enough good content. And it's always good content.

Listening to Ed read from his very first issue at Omnivore Books in San Francisco last week was inspiring to say the least. When asked if he believed a visit to a food or wine region in order to write about it was necessary, Ed said that “until you go you don’t even know what you don’t know.” I love that. He read a story of one of his early visits to Liguria just after he gave up masonry for a career in food and wine writing. Ed visited a focacceria near the beautiful Cinque Terra and described a variation on focaccia col formaggio (foccaccia stuffed with cheese) with such delicious elaboration that we had to change our dinner plans and stop at our favorite Italian eatery on our way home.

Ed calls this “deep writing,” adding that sometimes the wine and food purveyors he meets and interviews in France and Italy (Ed’s geographic specialties) are taken aback by the level of detail he demands of them. Most of the articles are several pages in length and are far too long for the internet's attention span. There's no digital version available; you wait for AOE in the mail. Ed pours his heart and intellect into every issue. It’s some of the very best food and wine writing I’m aware of, and it inspires me to not only eat and drink better but write a little better too. If you're not already reading Art of Eating subscribe here.